Back from the second jungle adventure

The Kinebetangan river running through Sabah for over 400ks represents a diverse edge in a land otherwise ruined through the intensive growing of oil palms. Row after monotonous row of palms , below hillsides with solitary trees is heartbreaking to see.

The animals, pushed to the fringes of jungle at the waters edge are easily visible from the water. A hastily planned visit to the jungle made me glad of the extra provisions, spare torches, good boots, rain wear I had packed. The lack of a running water and other usual comforts would have been privations, had the company not been so good, and the wildlife so prolific.

Boat rides to see the orangutan, proboscis monkeys, hornbills were followed by treks through leech and mosquito infested jungle. The rain turning the jungle into mud deep enough to come over the tops of wellies. My 5.11 boots and long socks made life so much more pleasant, and worth all the derision of those who travel with flip flops and expect a cosy bed.

This trip is the first I have really been aware of the tourist trail. I have become used to bumping into people first met in other towns along a fairly well trodden path. This does of course have its ups and downs.

This time by a happy coincidence two British nurses and a cycle touring Canadian, Kevin and I had already met found themselves in the same place. We enjoyed the time in away from the city, much revived by getting soaped up under the rain.

The girls left with the first boat around 6 am, we fellas slept in being ready to leave by 9. In that endearing Asian way, people here prefer to lie and have you happy than tell the truth and disappoint. We finally left at for Sipidan at 14:30, being told “soon”, “maybe five minutes“ for around 4 hours. Calculating the average time, we worked out we had been given assurances the of the buses imminent arrival for two hours before it could possibly have left.

Travel may seem action packed, and it is at times, but more often there is hanging around waiting for transport that never arrives. It is the ability to smile through it that develops character. That said, I will be relieved to be back in a Western country where people are not afraid to tell the truth, or that they simply don't know.

Imagine how bad we smelt after four days in the jungle, in already dirty clothes, with no running water, in rain, then blistering sun, and my nearly thirty kilos of pack. A hotel room with warm showers, a crisp cotton sheets was much appreciated. My system clearly recoiled at such luxury, as I began that winter cold I had been missing.

Without surprise we bumped into the nurses, and planned a days diving for the following day. So much better not to plan. On the occasions I have tried to force things they never work out, but the day did perfectly. Diving with a cold is not generally advised, but thanks to daily breathwork I felt confident to stay oxygenated well enough. The three dives rewarded us with views of huge green turtles, nudibranks, trigger fish, pipe fish and a huge horned starfish.

The last couple of nights were spent on a floating island, a fifteen minute boatride from the mainland. This would have been the idea place to r+r, but for being blasted by torrential rainstorms and lightning which had us sheltering under tables. Spirits were rained however by the arrival of a huge creamcake to celebrate Lizzies thirtieth birthday. Not chocolate as ordered, but covered in cream, pinapple and cherries.

Back on terra firma, I am about to begin another solo adventure, wonder who I will meet next?